Homecoming pleasures

Early this year I was asked to write a blog taking a sideways look at one of the destinations we offer for the website of the travel magazine Wanderlust. I wrote about what I like to do when I go back to my home town, La Paz, in Bolivia (You can read it here).

I got a bit of criticism from one of my industry contacts in Bolivia that the blog did not give the kind of impression for visitors to Bolivia they saw as appropriate because I didn’t talk about typical ‘touristic’ sites or activities.

This was certainly true, but that wasn’t what I was asked to write about. The blog was supposed to offer a few ‘insider’ tips from people that have lived and worked in a particular place.

Of course, when I head somewhere new I want to visit many of the attractions on offer.  But I’ve also found that meeting up with a friend or even a personal recommendation can lead to a discovery equally as interesting.

Even if these might not be the most authentic of options, they might offer a glimpse beyond the guidebooks and take you closer to the people who live there.

For any HighLives' destination, we will look to include the cultural or geographical highlights that stand out. But we will also do our best to point out a few things that I think offer visitors an insight into what day-to-day life is like for local people.

One such tip I have would be from my last visit to Lima, the often overlooked capital of Peru. If you’re there on a Sunday, head for the upscale seaside district of Miraflores, and queue with local families for a lunch-time treat of ceviche in one of the neighbourhood restaurants. I wasn’t really a fan of this spicy raw seafood dish before- but I’d never tasted fresher or better than on that lazy Sunday afternoon.

You can download HighLives' brochure here and learn more about travel experiences.

Bolivia Carnival, Oruro 2013

As a child I would always look forward to February, the Carnival season. It was really good fun, a whole week of celebrations, dance, music, and good fortune blessing. We Bolivians keep our traditions intact and one thing the country excels in is organising festivals and a good party.
Every year the mining town of Oruro fills with partygoers and becomes the biggest Carnival. Visit our website to find out how you could be part of this celebration, see here.
Gemma Bowes, travel editor of The Guardian, visited Bolivia last February, here is an article Gemma wrote on the Carnival in Bolivia.

Bolivia carnival: wet and wild

With water fights, costumed parades, dancing girls and blood rituals, Bolivians really know how to celebrate carnival in style.

"While these small celebrations add a joyful dimension to South American travel at this time of year, we would have been mad to miss one of the continent's biggest carnival parades, El Carnaval de Oruro, a week-long Rio-style procession of dozens of dancing troupes from all over Bolivia who gather in an isolated mining town on the southern Altiplano. Performing in fantastic costumes and huge masks, they continue for several sleepless days and nights, fuelled by strong spirits and chicha, a thick bubbly slop made from fermented corn".
To read the article in full see here or visit The Guardian website.

Inca trails less travelled

Inca trails less travelled

The Incan Empire once covered an area greater than Europe, providing today’s visitors with many other opportunities to walk the efficient road system that spanned the Andes mountains five hundred years earlier.

Peru’s admirable care for their greatest touristic asset ensures also you can only share their Inca Trail with 499 other visitors every day- unless you arrive in February, when it’s closed for cleaning.

But journey further onto the high Andes plateau into Bolivia to encounter Incan roadways that might not get that many travellers walking them all year.

The Bolivian highlands are criss-crossed with ancient paving that served as working highways for hundreds of years. Many trails were walked long before that by the Quechua and Aymara people that still make up most of Bolivia’s population.

Today, many routes have survived and are still plied by the odd llama herd and mules carrying potatoes and corn to isolated mining outposts.

These trails allow hikers to experience Bolivia’s wild beauty, where it’s possible to walk for days without hearing a car or even crossing a dirt road.  The paths traverse crystal-clear mountain streams, ancient ruined settlements and offer staggering views from jungle to snow-capped peak.

There are three main Inca trails that link Bolivia’s high plain at altitudes of up to 4,700 metres down to the sub-tropical Yungas region at around 1,300 metres. Each has excellent sections of Inca and pre-Inca paving, vary in difficulty from fairly straightforward to quite hardcore- especially in the rainy season- and last between three and five days.

While each trail has no finale to match the awesome Macchu Picchu at sunrise, each ends near idyllic hideaway towns such as Coroico and Chulumani. Both provide a rewarding opportunity to rest weary limbs, comfortable accommodation and dining options as well as ample options for adventurous exploration of the Amazon headwaters and jungle beyond.

My Inca trail experiences
When I was 16, in my winter break from school, I did my first Inca trail. It was probably the most challenging experience of my life up to that point. The hike was particularly testing and the trail itself was quite arduous. But looking back I realise I was very privileged to get to see such unspoilt beauty.
The following years, I went on five more, but on these occasions I got prepared, kept fit and packed wisely. For my visit journey I was a tour leader of a big group of over 100 people.
Here are my top tips of how you should prepare before you do an Inca trail
1.     Pack your bag as light as possible and always put everything in plastic bags.
2.   Get fit before the trip: swimming is a good idea to help your lungs get in good condition.
3.    Eat food reach in iron, which builds the red blood cells needed to function well at altitude.
4.     Acclimatise at high altititude for a couple of days before the walk. So it’s best if you leave the trek for the end of your trip.
5.      Never use brand new boots and take at least two pairs of socks per day.
6.    Carry water purifying tablets
7.   The first day is generally the hardest as you will have to climb to the highest point, get used to your boots and your rucksack will be heavier.
8. Go slow and take it easy there is no need to rush. Enjoy the views, the wildlife and the sunsets!

Picture: Uyuni salt flat, sun set

Here's a collection of photos taken by one HighLives customer, who recently went on our 13 Day Bolivian Odyssey experience. (Notice there are no pictures where the sky wasn't blue and the sun not shining brightly!)

To see Bianca’s trip in pictures, click here.

We have received some fantastic reviews of our travel experiences this year, you can read some of them on our site.
 

With the holiday season fast approaching, I haven't really finished my Christmas present buying yet but I'm looking forward to getting out there to find them. I'll share with you a couple of websites I found for super Latin American gift ideas for this year:

Exclusive Andean designs (these exclusive scarves and home decorative items all feature contemporary designs strongly influenced by Andean culture)

Organic wines (this site allows you to search for wines by country and includes several Latin American varieties)
 

I hope you have a happy and lively holiday season!

To find out more about our travel experiences, come and meet HighLives early in 2013 at the Destinations London travel show at Earl's Court from Jan 31 to Feb 3. We will be at stand LA28.
(Tip- to get a complementary ticket simply visit this page and use code MSC10)
 

Bibiana

highlives.co.uk
+44(0)2081442629

PS – Don’t forget that you can still see the Bolivian salt flats with the incredible mirror effect from now until March, and there is still time to book your trip to experience the unique atmosphere of the Bolivian Carnival in February 2013.

HighLives' answers to the top ten questions about Bolivia in 2012

Travelling to Bolivia soon?

As a Bolivian specialist, we receive many enquiries about travel to the country and always try to give the best possible advice.

Here are my answers to the top ten questions I received about Bolivia in 2012.

1.- Will altitude affect me when I arrive to La Paz?

Most likely yes, although if dealt with sensibly, there is no need to think this may be a problem at all for your visit.

In fact I only know one person, my friend Bridget, who felt no effects at all from being at high altitude. We even had her tested amid simulated conditions at the Altitude Centre in London, which gave a rare conclusion that Bridget could indeed run and walk as if she was at sea-level.

The reality for most people is that on your first day at high altitude you will have to take it easy, drink plenty of water, eat and sleep. Your body needs to adjust and this should minimise any uncomfortable headaches or breathlessness.

As I mentioned in a recent newsletter, I found that taking Altivit tablets before my most recent journey helped me in adjusting to high altitude quicker than for previous trips.

2 Are there any direct flights from the UK or Europe to Bolivia?

From 29 November 2012, Spanish carrier AirEuropa is introducing two weekly flights from London Gatwick to the Bolivian city of Santa Cruz, via Madrid.

From the USA, direct flights to Bolivia leave from Miami.

3 Can I visit Fish Island and the salt flats in the wet season?

Unfortunately not. If you travel in the rainy season of January to March you will likely have the unique experience of seeing the salt flats reflecting like the world’s biggest mirror. But a full tour to visit the island in the middle of the flats will not be possible in those wet conditions.

4 When is the best time to visit Bolivia?

Spring time (September-November) is the best time, as it is not too cold in the salt flats and desert, with far more sunshine and very little rain.

5 Is Bolivia safe to travel to?

Like many countries you visit as a tourist there are risks, particularly if you don’t speak the main language (Spanish).

Compared to most South American countries, Bolivia is safe for travelers, although crime rates have increased slightly over the last five years.

But I always say that it is important to be streetwise and not to carry all your valuables with you when out and about. I always recommend making electronic copies of your passport and travel tickets accessible online and on paper.

6 What is Bolivian food like? Will I have problems finding things to eat if I am vegetarian?

You will find that many meals, particularly at higher altitudes, are quite heavy and consist of meat, potatoes and rice, which helps because your body will burn more calories.

Keeping to a strict vegetarian diet can sometimes be a difficult, as soups are often made from chicken or beef stock. And on some menus even salads identified as vegetarian might contain small pieces of ham or bacon.

I always recommend not to eat raw vegetables to avoid stomach problems.

7 What currency should I travel with?

If you travel with US dollars many hotels and shops will accept them directly but are also easily changed in cities at good rates for the national currency, Bolivianos. You should also be able to use ATMs in the main cities to withdraw Bolivianos.

8 What is the weather like, do you have different season?

21 December to 20 March – Summer - will feel warm but with more frequent rainfall. Sometimes it will snow in the highlands and evenings can be cold.

21 March – 20 June – Autumn – Can be pleasant and sunny, but evenings are cold in the highlands

21 June – 20 September – Winter – Temperatures get below freezing in the evenings, and at high altitude temperatures can reach -20 C in the salt flats and desert areas.

21 September – 20 December – Spring – warm and pleasant, although it will still be cold at high altitude in the evenings.

9 What vaccinations do I need to have?

If you are travelling to the Amazon region you will need a yellow fever vaccination.

I recommend you visit your GP, where in the UK a nurse will be able to provide the latest information for the vaccines required for the area you will be visiting.

10 Bolivia is part of the Amazon?

Yes, in fact a large part of Bolivia’s east is Amazon jungle, with many sections virgin rainforest.

Don’t forget to visit our website www.highlives.co.uk and get inspired.

Until next time.

Bibiana

PS: Here are some pictures of La Paz on 1 Dec 2012, snowed the evening before.